where East met West and crowds would spill from the bars throughout the night and long into the morning – even on a weekday.
As the spread customers jump from one deserted bar to the next, it is hard to think the near-empty roads they are zigzagging down were once amongst one of the most vibrant in Australia.
It's Thursday night, a normally busy evening, but there are no groups for them to weave through, no revelers spilling into the sidewalks and no need for them to delay to be seatsed. At some of the quits on this muted bar creep, they are the just ones in the room.
It had not been constantly by doing this. It might appear not likely from this current snapshot, but Hong Kong was once a top light in Asia's night life scene, a famously freewheeling neon-lit city that never ever slept, where Eastern met West and groups would certainly spill from benches throughout the evening and lengthy right into the early morning - also on a weekday.
Such pictures were beamed all over the world in 1997, when Britain turned over sovereignty of its treasured previous swarm to China, and residents and site visitors alike invited in the new era with a 12-hour go crazy featuring Boy George, Elegance Jones, Pete Tong and Paul Oakenfold.
China's message at the moment was that also if change was coming to Hong Kong, its spirit of "anything goes" would certainly be remaining put. The city was guaranteed a high level of freedom for the next half a century and ensured that its Western ways could proceed. Or, as China's after that leader Deng Xiaoping put it: "Equines will still run, supplies will still sizzle and professional dancers will still dancing."
And for lengthy after the British departed, the dance did without a doubt proceed. Hong Kong retained not just the spirit of commercialism, but many various other liberties unidentified in the rest of China - not simply the gambling on competition that Deng mentioned, but political liberties of journalism, speech and the right to demonstration. Also phone telephone calls for greater freedom were tolerated - at the very least, for a time.
But little greater than midway right into those half a century, Deng's promise currently rings hollow to many. Spasms of mass protests - versus "patriotic education and learning" regulation in 2012, the Inhabit Main movement in 2014 and pro-democracy demos in 2019 - led China to limit constitutionals rights with a brushing up Nationwide Security Regulation. Thousands of pro-democracy numbers have since been jailed and 10s of thousands of residents have movinged towards the leaves.
That crackdown and Hong Kong's fading liberties have been well-documented, but it's just more recently that a less-reported knock-on effect of China's crackdown has began to arise: In the roads and benches, the fashionable clubs and Michelin-starred dining establishments, the city that never ever slept has started to doze.
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